It was a cold January day, and I was meeting my culinary rabbi, Albert Nahmias, for lunch. I suggested pot au feu and he countered with cassoulet, the rich, slow-cooked casserole originating in the southwest of  France, containing meat (typically pork sausage, goose, duck and sometimes mutton, pork skin and white beans, so off we went to the 15th and Le Gastroquet.

Chicago Bob was in the mood for a steak so we met in the 14th at Le Severo. I was raised in New York on thick, juicy steaks at Peter Luger’s, The Homestead, Smith & Wolensky, Gallagher’s to name but a few and for Bob, raised in Chicago, where the beef was so fresh you could see it on the hoof south of the loop, the typical steak-frites served at Paris bistros rarely satisfies.

I was tipped off to this elegant spot in sight of the Eiffel Tower by my Italian colleague Davide Quaglio Cotti.He and Franco, the ebullient owner, were pals on the Adriatic coast. For 25 years Franco ran a successful restaurant in Paris and when this spot became available he grabbed it. He will welcome you with warmth and geniality and his wife, fill prepare your meal.