Le Severo-14th arrondissement

in Bistros & Restos 11th to 15th Arr.

Chicago Bob was in the mood for a steak so we met in the 14th at Le Severo. I was raised in New York on thick, juicy steaks at Peter Luger’s, The Homestead, Smith & Wolensky, Gallagher’s to name but a few and for Bob, raised in Chicago, where the beef was so fresh you could see it on the hoof south of the loop, the typical steak-frites served at Paris bistros rarely satisfies.

Chicago Bob was in the mood for a steak so we met in the 14th at Le Severo. I was raised in New York on thick, juicy steaks at Peter Luger’s, The Homestead, Smith & Wolensky, Gallagher’s to name but a few and for Bob, raised in Chicago, where the beef was so fresh you could see it on the hoof south of the loop, the typical steak-frites served at Paris bistros rarely satisfies.

But I had it on good authority that I would be pleased and I was. An intimate dining room that can serve 30 customers feels like the kind of place you have been frequenting for years.Perfect for a private affair.

We were greeted by owner William Bernet who suggested that we order a faux filet and a pavé de rumsteak that would allow us to experience two distinct tastes and textures. For wine he recommended a 2013 Cote du Rhone that was beautifully complex for a wine so young and spot on perfect for our meal.

But first poireaux vinaigrette that were as delicious as the presentation was beautiful. And now for the reasons we came!

Bob’s pavé de rumsteak cooked rare was superb. It arrived with a lightly charred and smoky exterior encasing a juicy interior. My faut-filet was even better ( a matter of taste.) I won’t elaborate. Just look and imagine those pink juices in your mouth.

Chef Johnny Beguin is a magician in his tiny kitchen where he cooks each steak in a frying pan and uses the finest olive oils for the best fries in Paris that reminded my of  my Brooklyn youth. Hand-cut, slightly crispy with a meaty interior and flavor so rich that I could almost identify the variety of potato.

I await my son’s next visit from California when we will tear into a 600 mg dry aged faux filet for three.

Le Severo • 8 rue des Plantes • Paris 75014

Lunch and dinner daily except Saturday night and Sunday.

Reservations: 01 45 40 40 91

 

 

 

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