The 1950s and ’60s were the Golden Age for this medieval hillside village. Saint-Paul became an amazing film set, hosting French and foreign movie stars drawn to the French Riviera by the Victorinefilm studios in Nice and by the Cannes Film Festival.

Jacques Prévert lived in Saint-Paul for about fifteen years, occupying a tiny house right in the centre of the village called La Miette. He acted as a magnet on other film directors such as Henri-Georges Clouzot and André Cayatte. James Baldwin and Marc Chagall lived in the village for almost 20 years, but opted for the peace and quiet of the surrounding countryside.

Yves Montand and Simone Signoret celebrated their wedding at Le Colombe d’Or and Yves could often be found playing petanque with locals in the village square.

Our first stop up the hillside was the Fondation Maeght, the showplace for modern art that will celebrate 60 years in 2014. Here, the Nez de Neuilly is taking a break from her wine tasting duties to to step on the grass in the entry garden-shh-she missed the sign. Among the artists represented are Braque, Chagall, Giacometti, Calder, Miro and Léger to name but a few.

Now came the challenge-finding the automobile entrance to our Relais & Chateaux, The Saint-Paul that is tucked into the medieval village-not much margin for error, especially if you prefer to return your rental car in the same condition that it was when they handed you the keys.

Mission accomplished and since we were a bit early one of the staff took control of our car and luggage and Jeff installed us in the sitting room, in front of the fireplace for a flute. Champagne is the remedy for all problems and inconveniences  in this very civilized country.

Overlooking the roofs with their breath-taking views from this medieval perch, the magnificent rooms of the Saint Paul provide their guests with high-quality comfort and luxury services. Great attention to detail has been lavished on the rooms: period furniture precious textiles and luxury finishes, such as walls decorated with paneling and tissues and even a bidet.

The restaurant was closed on Tuesdays so at the suggestion of Florence LeCointre at the Cote d’Azur Office of Tourism we ate at Le Vieux Moulin, a converted 17th century mill that has been lovingly restored. Although it was a quiet night we were warmly welcomed by owner Frédéric Rossi who proudly described his property and the seated us where Mario counseled us on the menu and wines.

The Nez was very impressed with the 2010 Cotes du Provence from Chateau de Galoupet as she continued her encounter with sun-ripened wines from the region. She found this melange of grenache, syrah and a touch of mourvedre to be excellent.

I was equally impressed with my 300 gram magret de canard while the Nez had the home-made gnocchi. A little wine was left so I had a local goat cheese to end the meal. Having had a 2-star meal last night at the Chevre d’Or and a 1-star on tomorrow’s schedule at the Mas Candille we skipped dessert.

After a much needed good night of sleep we went down to the cave/restaurant at the Saint Paul for eggs cooked to order, bacon, assorted Viennoise and Italian coffee. Our  young servers, Sarah and Guillaume were absolutely delightful and the dining room was a thing of beauty.

We still had time for a little shopping and found wonderful olive oils that were as delicious and complex as a great wine at Premiere Pression Provence and colorful tablecloths and pottery at Kalliste.