We were nearing the end of our brief trip to the Cote d’Azur and our destination was the 5-star hilltop Relais & Chateaux, Le Mas Candille, in Mougins, that features a 1-star Michelin restaurant and the only Shiseido Spa in France–another dream experience.

We checked in at the 18th century Mas Provençal that houses the reception area, bar, restaurant and

individually decorated rooms reflective of the warmth and colors of  Provence. For me, although they are the smallest rooms on the property, they are the most charming and many open onto a tiled patio where you can sip your morning coffee or evening apéritif in the shade of stately trees.

If you want slightly larger rooms but with the decorative charm of the Mas, owner Mark Silver has constructed a 19 room bastide that is completely harmonious with the main building.

And for those who demand modernity, La Villa Candille offers six suites (4 of  70 square meters and 2 of 55 square meters.) After unwinding from a tortuous drive-I have a Woody Allen complex about technology-I believe that Tom-Tom the GPS was misleading me, it was time for an apéritif and dinner.

 poolside Restaurant La Pergola is situated beside the main pool.

Open to non-residents it offers a selection of high quality, lovingly prepared food throughout the day. Mediterranean cuisine, fish, salads, light snacks and full bar service. The relaxed poolside eating environment reflects the light and informal way of life of the region.

The crackle of the firewood and its slightly scented aroma were so inviting that we chose to hoist our flutes of Deutz rosé in the bar. A few amuse-bouches with our champagne were enough to prepare us for the creations of Chef Serge Goulemès.

We were seated in the dining room with a view of Grasse and the snow-capped Alpes-Maritimes. The upholstered footstools serve as a very elegant way of holding handbags. Almost immediately we were served a risotto with finely chopped zucchini-exquisite. Our sommelier selected a Pouilly Fumé blanc from Didier Daghaneau. The Nez de Neuilly found the nose very floral, very mineral at first taste and very long in the mouth-good but very masculine.

 

For starters M (the Nez) had a nem de carotte au coeur de torteau, brochette de moules at tartar d’avocat (carrot nem stuffed with crabmeat with a brochette of mussels and avocado.) The oohing and aahing said it all. With that she was poured a

Côtes de Provence rouge/Domaine St. André de Figuière 2009,  mourvèdre & syrah

nez: fruits rouges, très ample en bouche et longueur fin de bouche, très bon

 

 

 

 

I shared the wine but opted for roasted lagoustines with chorizo and pumpkin cream-¡delicioso!

 

 

As a main course M took our waiter’s recommendation and had the steamed Norwegian Skrei (firm-fleshed cod) with a vinaigrette of mango and ginger perfumed with star anise. Once again she was blown away.

Her wine was Beaujolais 2010 Moulin-A-Vent /Jean-Paul Brun

nez: léger et délicat, bonne ampleur en bouche et fin de bouche, très bon

 

I opted for an old favorite prepared in a new way-A generous chunk of Monkfish cooked with Mediterranean spices and served on a bed of braised endive with currants. I was not disappointed.

 

 

 

My wine was a Grand Cru classé Château Belgrave Haut Médoc 1998

nez: fruits mûrs, grande ampleur en bouche et fin de bouche, excellent

A truly exceptional wine that the Nez insisted on sharing.

 

 

The Médoc was so superb that we were served two more glasses to accompany our cheese course: a Venacco Brebis from Corsica, Galette des Templiers Chèvre from the Languedoc, Trois Cornes  chèvre from the Charente and a final chèvre Banon de Provence.

 

 

 

 

 

The Shiseido Spa

This luxurious hotel Spa is the perfect antidote to the stresses and strains of today’s hectic lifestyle. A haven of peace and tranquility it offers a wide choice of body, facial and beauty treatments in beautiful and relaxing surroundings.

Careful planning and total attention to detail have created a Zen-inspired environment that combines the best facilities with the ultimate in attentive service–the perfect place to relax and unwind.

The Shiseido Spa features

Five treatment rooms, one relaxation rooom

Shiseido Boutique

The private gardens offer a jacuzzi, hydrotherapy pool, sauna, fitness center and a relaxation center.

Now rejuvenated we hopped on the golf cart piloted by Gilles and were taken to the top of the hill leading down to the hotel from where we ambled into the village.

Artists have flocked to Mougins and continue to and so there are numerous galleries and museums to enjoy:

Musée d’Art Classique de Mougins

The museum’s large and diverse collection of antiquities includes Roman, Greek and Egyptian sculpture, vases, coins, and jewellery, and also the world’s largest private collection of ancient arms and armour. These ancient artworks are interspersed with a hundred classically inspired paintings, drawing sand sculptures by artists such as Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Dufy, Cézanne, Rodin, Dali, Andy Warhol, Marc Quinn, Antony Gormley, and Damien Hirst.

The Musée Gottlob is dedicated to the painter, sculptor and poet who made Mougins his home. Open daily and admission is free.

The Musée de la Photographie André Villers features a collection of Photographs of Picasso donated by the renowned photographer. Open daily-admission free.

Original works of Picasso will be exhibited including a linogravure, the bearded Man, produced by the Master in 1962.These works will dialogue with a collection of photographs of Picasso taken at Notre-Dame de Vie by his friend and famous photographer, Lucien Clergue. These photographs captured the various facets of its last years of work and leisure with friends and personalities in his famous residence in Mougins.

Par hasard we stopped into the Galerie Mougins Art Prestige where we were delighted to discover the work of Eugène Begerat. If I had a larger apartment or 4,500 spare euros there was one that I would have bought but prices start at 1,300. euros.Definitely worth the visit and if you are serious Nathalie might be willing to deal.

Galerie Mougins au Prestige 36 rue du Marechal Foch

On our way for a quick salad and a glass of cotes de provence rosé Coteaux Varois 2012/Château de l’Escarelle at Le Fontenoy I stopped for un verre with a couple of charming ex-soldiers from Cardiff and Oxford.

Ah, marvelous Mougins. I can see it now–Mougins Through Expatriate Eyes.

Le Mas Candille • Blvd. Clement Rebuffel • Mougins

F.I.G.

Festival International de Gastronomie

Every year over 100 chefs and 30,000 gastronomes gather in this charming hillside village for an orgy of food, wine and camaraderie for the festival inspired by the late Roger Vergé of Le Moulin de Mougins.

Have a video taste 

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