And then a very par hasard thing occurred. Just after M guided the Fiat into an available spot (The Baron of Brooklyn never learned how to drive a stick and as you know automatic rentals in Europe are expensive and rare) a car pulled up alongside and very close. The driver was a very charming bordelaise of un certain age who counseled us on the beauties of Bordeaux, Cap Ferret and of most immediate benefit: where to have lunch.

Her recommendation, a Sardinian eatery called Elio’s, was simply fabulous. Just a few blocks from the Grand Théatre on the Cours du Chapeau Rouge it serves portions that would have delighted “fat” Clemenza of the Corleone Family at prices that would have pleased Jack Benny. My choice was tagliatelli in a tomato sauce with garlic, pine nuts, basil and pecorino topped with a large spoonful of fresh ricotta.

The Nez had ravioli stuffed with a soft cheese, orange rinds and a touch of honey topped with a coulis of tomatos and basil. No need to use her nose as we chose a perfectly drinkable Giro di bagliore from Sardinia.

We now had just enough time to dash over the to the Tourist office and meet Cloé of VitiVini for a trip to the Médoc. Charming, effervescent and enthusiastic she piloted our group to our first destination, the Chateau Reverdi of the Thomas family. This small winery began with 3 hectares in the 50s and has expanded to a still intimate 28 hectares.

Médoc is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and a small amount of petit verdot. In the Reverdi wines that usual 5% petit verdot is gradually being increased annually and will eventually represent 25% of the grapes.

For our visit we were seated before 4 glasses. One each of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot from the barrels and one empty. We were then instructed to blend our own. Only a true oeneophile could predict the future of these very young wines as tasted from the cask but it was an enlightening and fun experiment.

Our next stop was the 157 hectare Chateau LaGrange where modern winemaking techniques, including stainless steel vats are employed.

Our program included samplings of  several Grand Cru ranging in price from 26 to 45 euros per bottle.

On the way back to Bordeaux, Cloé took us to the Chateau Margaux that although closed to the public offered excellent photo ops.

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Back in Bordeaux we retrieved the Fiat and crossed over to the right bank of the Garonnne and The Saint James, a modern Relais & Chateaux in the heart of Bouliac, a pretty little village on a hill overlooking Bordeaux. and its river, Designed in 1989 by the famous architect Jean Nouvel it is surrounded by a park full of trees and a fragrant garden of citrus trees and ancient roses. Inspired by the old tobacco drying lofts, four pavilions, linked by an open gallery, create a pure space, with the lights of Bordeaux illuminating the landscape at night. Far away, you can see the Landes of Gascogne forest, the biggest marine pine ensemble in Europe.

This being Monday, the gastronomic restaurant was closed but the village rotisserie, Le Café de l’Esperance is the fallback spot for hotel guests.

After sampling the regional apéritf, Lillet Blanc and Lillet Rouge for M, we selected from the groaning buffet table of liberally spiced classic starters,

My choice of plat was a grilled foie de veau with homemade fries and M had a grilled entrecote both washed down by a an ordinary but good Cotes de Bourg.

Desserts were another opportunity to select from a vast assortment of delicious options.

And now to sleep in the clouds with the angels on a firm bed mounted on a pedestal to offer a maximum view of Bordeaux.

The Saint James