A Sailor's Log-The Romantic Riviera

in Cruises

From the moment we stepped aboard the Voyager, a sleek 70 meter yacht, the party was on. Fifty passengers, including 8 readers of the Paris Insider, were about to share a convivial atmosphere, bountiful meals and stops in Corsica, Portofino, Cinqueterre, Elba, Porto Venere, Cannes and Nice. And when anchored off shore the Mediterranean was available for dip in the “pool.” We gathered on the sun deck for cocktails and exchanged greeting with our “family” for the next 7 days. 

 

calvi

Aug 4, 2013

As we headed to Orly and Nice to meet our ship, the Variety Voyager, I could finally say that I am a Parisian, as evidenced by my August getaway from Paris. The airport was packed with vacationers heading for la Cote d’Azur and Corsica-lot’s of happy children anticipating a week, at least, on the beach and in the Mediterranean. We departed on time and Florence, our charming Air France air hostess, greeted us with a big smile and laughed at my question regarding champagne service. She did manage us to ply us with an unlimited supply of fruit juices, coffee and snacks. As we descended to Nice she asked if we hadn’t met in Saint-Germain? M could only roll her eyes: She’s stuck with me-too late to bail out now. It was only later after a salade niçoise at the quai that I realized that the “genius” had left his cotton blazer aboard the plane,-  but life is too good to complain.

6beb3322738dcca6c950e197f52ce4de

From the moment we stepped aboard the Voyager, a sleek 70 meter yacht, the party was on. Fifty passengers, including 8 readers of the Paris Insider, were about to share a convivial atmosphere, bountiful meals and stops in Corsica, Portofino, Cinqueterre, Elba, Porto Venere, Cannes and Nice. And when anchored off shore the Mediterranean was available for dip in the “pool.” We gathered on the sun deck for cocktails and exchanged greeting with our “family” for the next 7 days.

August 4 Stop at Saint-Tropez and night sail to Calvi

david janet sttrop

My favorite reason for stopping at this glitzy playground of the uber rich is the red-awninged Café Senequier where lurking behind the always filled café lies the best nougat in France.

David & Janet from California buying nougat at Senequier

nougat

August 5 Calvi

waterbearerCalvi

Protected from invaders by its Citadel this was our entry into Corsica. We spent the morning looking at tchochkas and browsing the market. After a shipboard lunch we had time for a few rays and a swim at the village’s  sandy beach.

16-Corsica+39

Day III Salleccia Beach & Saint Florent

Our overnight sail brought us to the pristine Salleccia Beach for swimming and relaxing on the sand in this unspoiled spot. Over lunch we sailed to Saint Florent where our ship’s tenders took us ashore for shopping highlighted for us by a visit to the Domaine Lazzarini wine shop where we sampled reds, whites, muscats, limoncello and myrtle digestif from a family winery. We are already enjoying the myrtle back in Paris.

August 7 Elba/Porto Venere

elbaDoor

benevenuto al Italia!

Once we stepped off the tender in Elba we knew that we had crossed a geographical and psychological frontier. Cries of buon giorno greeted us as we climbed the narrow streets en route to Napoleon’s house. Older ladies chatting in doorways and walking their dogs gave a sense of warm family life.

Good shopping including the famous acqua d’Elba perfume made this a popular spot for our fellow passengers.

PORTO-VENERE

Next stop was Porto Venere, a UNESCO world heritage site founded by the powerful Genovese city state in the 11th century. At night the port comes alive and we heard a terrific jazz saxophonist while we sipped summer cocktails. And in a scene out of Fellini I sang opera along the port with a charming gang of pre-teen “vitelone.”

August 8 Cinque Terre

cinque-terre-291

We boarded a ferry at Porto Venere to cruise around these 5 little villages that cling to the cliff face and are most easily accessed by boat and therefore quite isolated-so much so that some of the town cemeteries contain the remains of only 4 or 5 families. We made brief visits to Vernazza and Monte Rosso accompanied by our exuberant Italian guide.

Aug 9 Portofino

stock-photo-portofino-italy-102618134

My favorite among our stops was this quaint, half-moon shaped village of pastel colored houses. A bracing hike will take you to the promontory and the Castello Brun with a panoramic view of the village and sea.It was here that I completed my gift shopping for the tre nipotiniback in San Francisco.

nastroAzzurroPortfino

It was also where I discovered my new preferred summer quaff, Nastro Azzurro (Blue Ribbon.) A very light, refreshing alternative to Moretti and other stronger beers-and don’t even mention Pabst Blue Ribbon in the same breath.

Capt&T

Captain’s Dinner

Back on board and before our overnight departure for Cannes, Captain Andreas hosted a farewell dinner. With Miklos at the keyboard, collective singing and dancing no one made it to their cabin before 1:30AM

ronRom

Ron & Barbara aka Elizabeth Taylor and Indiana Jones from Detroit and Amboise at Captain Andreas’ farewell cocktail party.

djShip

David and Janet -San Francisco Bay Area

mpAlan

Alan & Marie Paule celebrating 42 years of marriage

MundIan

Ian the Sly Scot charming M

and charming me tgian

 August 10 Cannes

A somewhat anti-climatic day after last night that was highlighted by a final lunch with the Stupendous Scot, Ian McBain, our charming shipmate who has logged over 100 cruises ranging from a passenger manifest of 9 and a crew of 13 to floating cities of 4,000 with 1,500 crew.

August 11-Arrival in Nice Adieu until next year

This was my first cruise and certainly only the beginning of my seafaring career. We made some wonderful friends from around the world and our au revoirs were tinged with the sadness that accompanies the end of a good time.

 

The Paris Insider Newsletter

THE PARIS INSIDER family of weekly newsletters,Including THE PARIS INSIDER (Tuesday,) THE PARIS READERS CIRCLE (Wednesday,) THE PARIS WEEKENDER (Thursday,) and THE PARIS INTERVIEW (Friday) offer freshly written reviews about restaurants, museums, books, events, showings and what's on in Paris. Arriving at 9:15 AM Pacific Time you'll receive all of this plus tips on excursions to the surrounding regions from Champagne to the Loire Valley and much more. Thank you for subscribing.