I was in the 17th arrondissement to look at an apartment to add to my list of rental units and en route to the Metro I stumbled upon Les Poulettes Batignolles, well, not exactly, I’d read a review by a critic that I respect and wanted a look see. Satisfied with  what I saw I booked a table for Saturday afternoon.

I was in the 17th arrondissement to look at an apartment to add to my list of rental units and en route to the Metro I stumbled upon Les Poulettes Batignolles, well, not exactly, I’d read a review by a critic that I respect and wanted a look see. Satisfied with what I saw I booked a table for Saturday afternoon.

We exited the metro at Villiers, cruised the market street rue Levis, turned on to the rue des Dames, populated by many family-run petit bistros and arrived at our destination, 10 rue de Chéroy. We were welcomed by the Franco-Catalan couple Judith Cercos and Ludovic Dubois who met in Barcelona and opened this charming bistro in October 2104.

Ludovic has deep roots in the neighborhood where his mother, Martine Dubois operates her superb fromagerie. He apprenticed with Jacques Cagna and Michel Rostang in Paris and brings a classic French touch to the kitchen aided by a young Catalan sous-chef.

Judith was a sommelière at the Mandarin Hotel in Barcelona and brings her characteristically Catalan passion and an extensive knowledge of Spanish wines. Eager to learn more about these wines we skipped the Bollinger and drank a 2010 Chardonnay sparkler from Juvé and Comps at a mere 6 euros the flute.

M started with couteaus persillade (razor shell clams) and crevettes à la plancha that were  succulent in a ginger sauce-even the shells were delish. My langoustine bisque with comté was a more prosaic choice but every bit as delicious, especially when sopped up with the wonderfully crunchy house bread.

For her main course M chose a tasty riff on the classic shepherd’s pie (parmentier): chopped beef cheeks with mashed potatoes and seasonal black truffles.

Feeling muy Catalan I couldn’t resist the cochon de lait (milk-fed pork) in an orange-dill sauce accompanied by a side of pommes de terre with chorizo.

On to desserts. We shared a feathery baba au rhum with a very subtle scent of pineapple and the ubiquitous chantilly.

The rice pudding au vanille with a hint of Argentina, dulce de leche confiture, stirred the tango in my soul.

I loved this charming, friendly, neighborhood bistro that serves Michelin-starred quality, cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere.

Les Poulettes Batignolles • 10 rue de Chéroy • 75017

When we arrived there was only one other couple à tablebut by the time we left we had befriended them, a cardiologist and his family and Jean-Yves, a WW I buff and Catholic seller of Kosher breads and patisserie to caterers for weddings and bar mitzvahs–a truly convivial experience.