It was Friday night and this recently hip section of a very large arrondissement was hopping. A young crowd was packing the bars along the rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud that had heretofore been boucheries and boulangeries.
My destination was Les 3 Sceaux, an unpretentious bistro with a reputation for an excellent bio cave. In fact the owner/bartender/occasional waiter Philippe proudly serves wines that are produced in limited quantities-in some cases as few as 60 bottles per year.
The Nez de Neuilly was delayed by construction at la Place de la République so I enjoyed some saucissons and a glass of white from the Loire with Philippe. A thorough Parisian having been born in raised in Les Halles when it was still functioning as ‘the belly of Paris’ he fills his establishment with a warm and friendly welcome. The Nez arrived and we were treated to a white burgundy before sitting down to dinner.
I ordered ravioles de gambas in a reduction of soupe de poissons, vin blanc, shallots and vegetable cream and the Nez had a very Japanese daurade marinated in citrus juices and Japanese vinegar.
I satisfied my carnivorous instinct with a filet de boeuf de Salers au poivre flambé à l’armagnac while the Nez had the carré d’agneau en croute d’herbes that I had no difficulty poaching. Sautéed, julienned baby carrots and a purée of potatoes and leeks from a local supplier were perfect as was the Gevrey-Chambertin.
Very nice so far but the desserts were exceptional: tarte au citron de Sicile et mouuse lime for madame with a Muscat and a tart au chocolat d’equateur et framboise, mousse pistaches for monsieur, served with a Muscat rouge grenache from over ripened grapes.
By this time we had became fast friends with Philippe who joined us to discuss theatre and music over a final, special treat an 18 year old calvados. I’ll be back soon.
Les 3 Sceaux 88 rue de la Fontaine au Roi
Metro: Parmentier
