New Chef Fabrice Giraud has cooked in some of the finest kitchens in France, among them the Chantecler du Negresco Nice, La Grande Cascade and next to Alain Ducasse in Monaco.We chose the tasting menu to experience the full scope of his talents.
It was M’s birthday and amazingly she had never been to La Maison Blanche. The conspiracy was in place and Albert Nahmias made the booking with Bruno (Franck) who transmitted a loud and clear message to the maitre d’Alain-Philippe. Suffice it to say it would be a memorable evening.
New Chef Fabrice Giraud has cooked in some of the finest kitchens in France, among them the Chantecler du Negresco Nice, La Grande Cascade and next to Alain Ducasse in Monaco.We chose the tasting menu to experience the full scope of his talents.
Too chilly for the terrace but our view of the Left Bank was still sublime. Coupes from Duval-Leroy started us in festive fashion.
We began with tourteau en cannelloni aux herbes du potager-crab cannelloni with a purée of avocado and baby green beans.
SPRING 2014
Where do culinary journalists go on a day off? Try La Maison Blanche.
On this August day that couldn’t decide if it was summer or fall I found two colleagues-Albert Nahmias, the Pasha of Paris food writers and his pal Jean-Louis Galesne who has been following international gastronomy since the 60s.
Waved to their table we ordered coupes of Carole Duval-Leroy’s exceptional Tradition to accompany small, moist squares of olive bread.
Albert chose a creamy burrata with trio of red, green and yellow tomatoes. Jean-Louis and I were delighted by our carpaccio of house smoked tuna with ventrèche cream, piquant capers and crunchy vegetables.
We continued with the champagne as the guys opted for an organic chicken breast with “mac and cheese” and Parisian mushroom duxelles. I savored ,my fricassée of monkfish in a lobster bisque.
All we needed was coffee to end this casual and affable lunch par hasard.
A retractable awning and overhead heaters makes this a romantic spot in any weather.
It was my daughter’s birthday and she wanted to go someplace ‘elegant,’ not one of my bistros du coin and since the rain had stopped and the sky resembled blue, I called Stephanie at la Maison Blanche and she seated us with a fab view of the Eiffel Tower.
We started with my favorite apéritif, a coupe of champagne rosé and enjoyed the view.The chef was featuring a menu from the Savoie and having recently visited Megève in the Haut-Savoie I was sold.
The amuse-bouche was a light Soupe aux choux et diots « retour des montagnes », Chabrot d’une réduction de Chignin.
The first course was Féra « fumée maison », pommes de terre fondantes en tartiflette.
Our sommelier selected a 2012 Argile Rouge that we stayed with throughout the meal.
The main course was a Cochon fermier rôti, croquette de tête au raifort et Crozets, Grattons à la crème de Roussette et Beaufort
We accepted more wine for the cheese course composed of Fromages du « pays » : tomme céronnée, bleu de Termignon et Beaufort
Our scrumptious dessert was a Biscuit de Savoie fourré d’une mousse légère au lait d’Alpages, Myrtilles au sirop comme une confiture de vieux garçon, sorbet génépi arrived with birthday candles and a singing waiter. Smiles all around.
Café and mignardises were a light ending to a lovely and leisurely lunch. As we used to say in Brooklyn: “I done good” and I should stay in my daughter’s good graces until ay least summertime.
15 avenue Montaigne, Paris 75006
Tel: 01-4723-5509
Metro: Alma-Marceau, Franklin Roosevelt
My first visit to the Maison-Blanche
Situated atop the Theatre de Champs-Elysées on the chic Avenue Montaigne Maison Blanche offers one of the most spectacular dining views in Paris. On this overcast, grey Paris day the sun was barely peeking through as I gazed up and across the Seine at the spire of the American Church, the dome of Les Invalides and the ugly tower looming over Montparnasse.
The theatre was completed in 1913 in time to scandalize Paris with the world premiere production of Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring performed by Diaghalev’s BALLETS RUSSES featuring Nijinsky.
I awaited the delayed arrival of my colleague and Paris culinary “rabbi,” Albert NAHMIAS with a crisp flute of Deutz rosé accompanied by amuse-geules.
From the daily formule I started with a carpaccio of daurademarinated in tequila and Albert opted for Gambas with Paimpol white beans, chrorizo and chayote.
A 2008 Domaine Laroche Viognier (Merlot, Syrah and Granache) accompanied my pintade au vinaigre, choux rouge et pommes. I managed to poach some of Albert’s Monkfish cheeks with a delicate sauce of chestnut milk and celery.
Albert watched his waistline but I enjoyed all but a spoonful of pastillas aux marrons a la vanille de bourbon.
15 avenue Montaigne, Paris 75008
Tel: 01-4723-5599
Metro: Alma-Marceau, Franklin Roosevelt
