New owners-same old high-quality, rib sticking menu. Actually, Dimitri has been running the front of the house and Remi has been behind the stove but now they are working for themselves and you can feel the pride in the warm welcome.

The classic red checkered, bistro tablecloths are a sure clue that you will be well-fed. The menu changes four times per year and the next rotation will be Spring (March 15.) But today it was a mushroom fest.

Dimitri poured glasses of a 2000 Sauvigy-Les-Beaune Aux Grands Liards from Jean-Michel Giboulot and we stayed with it throughout the meal. I started with three large ravioli stuffed with foie gras and cèpes and my colleague had a classic salade d’haricots verts, à ‘echalote.

Albert was content with a second entrée- 2 large herring filets with potatoes and feasted on a filet de veau in a sauce of morilles with roasted potatoes.

For dessert I chose vanilla ice cream with tart griottes spritzed with kirsch.

October 2011

Stan and Joann Hays were visiting from San Francisco and around the corner from their hotel, La Perle, I rediscovered Chez Fernand site of my first encounter with os à moelle.

It was 7:15 on a Saturday night and the dining room that would be full by 8 was nearly empty. We were greeted by the tall and adorable Sandy who gestured to an adjacent table and arrived moments later with a carafe d’eau and menus. The daily specials were on the ardoise and I was instantly intrigued by the perdreau roti, a young partridge that would be pan-roasted with a side of pureed celery root. I couldn’t resist walking towards the kitchen to get a look at the baby bird and be assured by Chef Remi Leblon that I had made an excellent choice.

We unanimously agreed to start with os à moelle, three marrow bones filled with creamy marrow and served with toast and grey sel de Guerande accompanied by a Chinon Chateau de Ligré from P.Ferrand.

Joann was content with a starter of avocado and crabmeat while Stan lusted after the carré de porc that I happily poached. We finished the wine and a lovely evening with an excellent camembert and comté. I’ll be back.

And I was, just three days later when the Israeli-born, Melbourne Jeweler Eugene Keshett came to town and looked me up courtesy of Judy MacMahon. With the memory of the os fresh in my mind we finished our Chablis at Le Flore and headed for Fernand.

When Dimitri, the maitre d’ spotted me he immediately ushered me to Sandy’s section where complimentary glasses of white wine arrived almost before we sat down. And after ordering a bottle of 2009 Croze Hermitage from Domaine Saint-Clair plates of pureed crab were placed before us.

The Os was a no-brainer and a casual glance at my neighbor’s plate was enough for me to order the pan-roasted ris de veau with earthy cepes. The large rognons spoke to Eugene.

 Chez Fernand 13 rue Guisarde Paris 75006

Tel: 01-4354-6147

Metro: Odéon, Mabillon

Open Daily: Lunch 12PM-2:30PM , Dinner 7PM-11PM and sometimes later