Albion
If you’ve been to FISH in the last ten years then you’ve been served a drink by Hayden Clout, the Kiwi barman.
He’s piggy-backed that experience and joined with former FISH chef Matthew Ong to create this combination bistro and cave where you can walk out the door with very drinkable wines starting at 4.50 euros.. The pretty face that greets you at the door is his charming French wife Marina who shares service duties with her husband.
Only opened since Thanksgiving (2011) I was anxious to try it out, hoping that I would be able to recommend it–I was not disappointed.
The former FISHman knows his wines and glasses of a 2010 Sauvignon Blanc -le p’tit blanc du tue-boeuf (5.50 euros) were placed before us as we perused the menu.
My friend Corinne Labalme of La Belle France started with a velouté of celery root topped by a poached egg and I relished a risotto with tiny bits of chorizo. They were both superb and subtle-each individual flavor popping out while remaining a part of the whole.
The cuisse de lapin farcie resting on a purée of broccoli and creamy parmesan was parfect with the bio 2003 Saumur Chateau Tour Grise as was Corinne’s filet de daurade atop the little green lentils for Le Puy-en-Velay with a sauce of Madeira that she savored with another glass of sauvignon.
Hayden was very excited about his cheese selection from Autour d’un Fromage, a neighborhood fromager and after devouring a Reblochon, Sainte Maure (chevre) and a tomme savoyarde laced with marc and stuffed with raisins I was convinced.
Albion
80 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 10th arr
Metro: Poissonnière
Closed Sundays & Mondays
Tel: 01-4246-0244