Named for Philippe Madamour’s collection of antique percolators this spot in the “Europe” district-streets are Turin, Moscou, Rome, etc. that houses music shops and luthiers Le Percolateur is turning out very good food at reasonable prices.
Thanks to Phyllis Roth of New York for this tip.
Named for Philippe Madamour’s collection of antique percolators this spot in the “Europe” district-streets are Turin, Moscou, Rome, etc. that houses music shops and luthiers Le Percolateur is turning out very good food at reasonable prices. The setting is reminiscent of the kind of spot Philippe ran in New York’s Soho district-cool, refined, modern with daily 15.5 formule (entrée, plat) that attract a young business crowd and more extensive formule in the evening for the neighborhood residents and us.
I was a trifle early so I shmoozed with Philippe at the bar while the dining room filled up. Once my guest arrived we strode to our waiting table and had a glass of Viognier as we scanned the menu. To my left and right diners were gobbling up the daily special of onglet de veau with pasta.
Young chef Alexandre Trognon has trained at Maxim’s , La Maison Blanche and with the hot young chef Cyril Lignac at Le Quinzième. He oversees a staff of three and I wanted to test his talents so we ordered à la carte beginning with small purple artichoke hearts sautéed in olive oil with chorizo that delighted my Mediterranean palate.
My colleague had a main course of sautéed scallops in their shell with herbs and balsamic vinegar that were perfectly cooked-slightly caramelized on top and springy to the touch. I had made a visit to the kitchen and had instructed Alexandre to save me a man-sized croustade de filet de boeuf from André with an herb salad-very simple, very delicious with the salt bringing out the natural flavor of the meat. I chose a 2004 Haut Medoc to accompany the steak.
Dessert was a sea-salted caramel “molleux” with yogurt ice cream that punctuated a relaxing and satisfying meal.
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Le Percolateur 20 rue de Turin 75008 Metro: Liège , Europe
Tel 01 43 87 97 59
Lunch M-F, Dinner M-Sat Closed Sunday