On the site of the magnificent Telephone & Telegraph building dating to the 1920s, Les Climats has risen, serving superb food, exceptional wines and charming service in a stunning environment.
On the site of a magnificent Telephone & Telegraph building dating to the 1920s Les Climats has risen, serving superb food, exceptional wines and charming service in a stunning environment.
New chef Julien Boscus trained with Pierre Gagnaire & Yannick Alléno and has constructed an imaginative seasonal menu featuring gibier and other classic dishes to complement an impressive list of over 580 Burgundy wines.
On a cold evening I warmed myself with an assortment of bar food (served between noon and 2:30PM and again at 6PM-11PM) as I waited for M–I am chronically early while she chronically punctual. Julien started me with thinly sliced andouille that had been smoked and aged for 3 months, foie gras de canard with quince marmalade and a wonderful terrine de gibiers all served with a Crémant de Bourgogne-the finest non-champagne sparkler. See you at the bar!
After M had finished her crémant we were ushered to our table in the majestic dining room with it’s soaring, vaulted ceilings and stained glass art nouveau windows. Moments later we were served a vélouté de chou-fleur to perk our palates.
Properly primed, M opted for TOURTEAU,Relevé de fins aromates et sauce aux fruits de la passion, encornets, avocat et pamplemousse rose.
Having been deprived of gibier during my childhood in Brooklyn and knowing of Julien’s prowess with game, I selected Tourte traditionnelle de gibier, sauce rouennaise, salade de jeunes pousses et légumes croquants assisted by an excellent 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin.
For our main courses M chose a buttery Chevreuil Dos rôti dans un beurre cannelle-poivre blanc Malabar, spaetzle à la farine de châtaigne
et champignons sauvages, crème de betterave blanche au raifort.
Knowing that M would share I selected LIEVRE DE BEAUCE en 2 FACONS,
Râble lardé cuit à la goutte de sang, feuille de chou sablée de poudre d’amande, navets glacés à la fine de Bourgogne et sirop d’érable /
Cuisse en civet traditionnel, crème de panais et foie gras.
We made a small incursion into the cheese cart so that we would have room for POIRE COMICE ET SAFRAN,Pochée doucement, velours de safran, biscuit frangipane et sorbet poire. To cap this lovely evening Franck Emmanuel poured a beautiful marc de Bourgogne.
Les Climats is a terrific spot for a celebration as confirmed by our French neighbors who were celebrating their son’s 19th birthday, having already feted their daughter.
Les Climats, 42 rue de Lille, 75007
Metro: Solferino
Tel: 01 58 62 10 08
Closed Sunday & Monday
This being a rare day of sunshine and heat in a year of permanent grisaille, I was joined in the ‘garden’ by my pal and Cuban cigar supplier, Bob Glaser, who started with a cold beer and I ordered a 2010 1er cru Chablis from Stéphane Moreau-Daudet.
For starters I had Sardines Bretonne grillés, condiment au citron caviar that were as good to eat as they were to look at.
Bob selected a carpaccio de boeuf that was enhanced with Sichuan peppers and sorrel and collage of radishes. A terrific riff on a standard.
For our main course a Maquereau Breton mariné puis grillée au poivre Sancho, compotée de clémentine amére. The slightly bitter citrus brought the fish to life as it exploded on the palate. Carole, the owner/host selected another white wine from 2010, a Saint-Romain, Cuvée Joseph Menault-Hospices de Beaune.
After an assortment of cheeses enjoyed with a glass of red from Cotes d’Auxerre Corps de Garde-J.H. & G. Goisot it was time to clip the cigar, light it with a long match and sit back and savor a perfect day in Paris.
Les Climats, 42 rue de Lille, 75007
Metro: Solferino
Tel: 01 58 62 10 08
Closed Sunday & Monday
