Chef Alberico Penati’s resumé includes some of the world’s finest restaurants in London , Paris and grand-luxe hotels in Italy, including the Villa d’Este in Como and the Excelsior in Venice but he was keen to re-establish his presence and his cuisine in Paris and so, in collaboration with his friend and associate, Venetian businessman Pier Silli – founder of the Carpaccio at Royal Monceau – he returned early in 2014, opening Penati al Baretto. A mere six months after his arrival at Penati al Baretto, Chef Alberico Penati has earned a Michelin star.
Chef Penati & Albert Nahmias
I was meeting Albert for lunch at one of his favorites and although most of the key staff had already begun their vacations, Chef Penati was at the stove.
Fabrizio offered us a sparkling wine that was in between a French chmapagne and a prosecco-dry with no chaptilization, accompanied by hand-cut reggio parmigana and a magnificent Umbrian olive oil.
I statred with Vitello tonnato Piemeontese Piemontese featuring haricots verts, black olives and artichokes. Albert had a tarare of octopus.
As a main course I opted for grilled tuna with artichokes and Albert continued with grilled octopus. We drank a chanti classico.
My beautiful neighbor was savoring her panna cota with strawberries and I followe her lead with satifying results.
After espresso Fabrizio showed off his collection of digestifs but when I got to Grappa Romano Levi, Albert motioned him to go no further!
“I make grappa: the blood of fire, the pangs of life, poetry are yours.”
~ Romano levi ~
Original Review
Chef Alberico Penati’s resumé includes some of the world’s finest restaurants in London , Paris and grand-luxe hotels in Italy, including the Villa d’Este in Como and the Excelsior in Venice but he was keen to re-establish his presence and his cuisine in Paris and so, in collaboration with his friend and associate, Venetian businessman Pier Silli – founder of the Carpaccio at Royal Monceau – he returned early in 2014, opening Penati al Baretto. A mere six months after his arrival at Penati al Baretto, Chef Alberico Penati has earned a Michelin star.
On your right as you enter, is a long, highly polished wood bar, with brass fittings and a mirror running from one end to the other. A great place for an after work cocktail or a pre-dinner pause.
In two weeks I’ll be off to Florence for five days of extensive dining and drinking, so this was a perfect spot to work on my Italian and familiarize myself with seasonal cuisine of the region.
Over a glass of Chianti Classico Reserva we nibbled on aged parmesano, cauliflower and anchovy mousses , fruity olive oil and an assortment of breadsticks, focaccia and petit pains.
Fungi are in season and Chef Penati started my friend Albert Nahmias with girolles, tomatoes and ricotta. I selected smoked mozzarella with tomatoes, capers and anchovies. A Chianto Classico Reserva worked very well.
porc1As main courses we both opted for meat in substantial quantity. For Albert, black pork loin with thyme crust, stewed savoy cabbage and grapes,
And any time I can eat veal I will and the veal loin with “di Malga” gorgonzola blue cheese, sauteed porcini mushrooms and artichokes was bursting with diverse, individually identifiable flavors. No need to change the wine.
crepeWe both patted our stomachs, but a visit by the chef convinced us to share “Crespella“ a thin pancake with rosemary, caramelised figs, pine nuts and raisins.
Far too good for just coffee, but just right for barrel-aged grappa. So smooth and potent.
Chef Penati proposes a weekly Gourmet Menu:
2 courses 39€ (first and main course or main course and dessert)
or as above at 55€ to include ½ bottle of Chianti Riserva and mineral water
or 3 courses 45€ or as above at 65€ to include ½ bottle of Chianti Riserva and mineral water
Penati al Beretto
9 rue Balzac • 75008
01-42 99 80 00
Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday