After a long absence and a change in ownership I was reintroduced to this wonderful little bistro near the Place des Vosges but far enough away to keep the true tourists at a distance. My go between was the oft-married, blonde, Healdsburg, Ca interior designer Myra Hoefer, whose atelier is across the street and who uses Chez Janou as her personal canteen-with her oversized glasses and great stories she merits a write-up of her own.

After a long absence and a change in ownership I was reintroduced to this wonderful little bistro near the Place des Vosges but far enough away to keep the true tourists at a distance.

My go between was the oft-married, blonde, Healdsburg, Ca interior designer Myra Hoefer, whose atelier is across the street and who uses Chez Janou as her personal canteen-with her oversized glasses and great stories she merits a write-up of her own.

The bistro recalls the feeling of Pagnol’s classic trilogy of life in Marseilles: FANNY, MARIUS and CESAR, with movie posters and black and white photographs covering the walls dominated by the great Raimu and 80 varieties of pastis to transport you to sunny Provence.

We met for a Sunday brunch before going to the flea market at Saint-Ouen. I couldn’t resist the crisp petite friture déperlans (tiny whitebait, floured and fried and served in a basket with aioli on the side.) It reminded me of my favorite cookbook-THE CUISINE OF THE SUN/Mireille Johnston. Myra had the house salad of shrimp, avocado and grapefruit sections. A chilled rosé from Provence, a slice of St Nectaire fermier, coffee and we were off to the flea market.

I had several more meals with friends and clients that season and when I returned this year I once again relished the petite friture that reminded me of my first summer in Provence. I was alone and the pupils of the woman at the table directly in front of me dilated as she gasped. I, of course, offered her one of the tiny fish dipped in aioli and was immediately invited to join their table of three for a glass of wine. They were from Australia. She was here to help her son find an apartment and her friend’s husband was a college professor whose family had escaped the Nazi’s. I now have agents in Australia.

And just last week the London Art Dealer who had been in Paris for three weeks and had been joined by the London Classical Music impresario for the final week met me for a farewell lunch before packing them and their bags into a taxi to the Gare du Nord.

It didn’t start out well-the host was a little full of himself, Rafaelle was put out when we were unhappy with the seating she offered and our waitress Aude offered menus without a smile. I suggested that they rename the place, Le Bistrot sans Sourires (Bistro without Smiles) that brought smiles to the faces of the two gentlemen to our left.

Pierre-Philippe was a banker and Henri at one time ran one of the largest ad agencies in Paris. By the time Aude reappeared to take our order she was beaming. We boringly ordered the same delicious meal from the 14.50euro formule of the day: tuna marinated with salmon and grapefruit and a faux-filet with oven-roasted small white potatoes. Our neighbors suggested a red from the Luberon.

Henri has a large vacation home in San Remy de Provence and knew the wine. Our conversation featured food, wine, movies and singers; Pierre-Philippe favored Aznavour and Henri, Moustaki. They were both intently into blogging and You Tube and Henri grabbed his camera and recorder for an impromptu interview featuring my singing a few bars of an Aznavour tune and a Tony Bennett arrangement of FLY ME TO THE MOON-coming to You Tube soon.

It was just like being at Chez Panisse with Fanny, Marius and Cesar.
Chez Janou
2, rue Roger Verlomme
Paris 75003
Metro: Bastille, Chemin Vert
01-4272-2841

Open daily for lunch and dinner