Young Gary Dorr is placing his personal stamp on the Dorr Family restaurant business. First with the Grand Bistros and now with the Bar à Huitres he is renovating and reinvigorating with style.

The classic Paris bistro/brasserie with the curbside shuckers dressed in red market jackets has been replaced by an elegant grey and black interior. Grey walls that resemble driftwood, black and gray table coverings, Limoges plates custom-made by BERNARDAUD and gray rattan fauteuils evoke quiet, understated elegance.

There are no menus but rather iPads that show daily availability and offer in-depth descriptions and images of fish, oysters and a surprising good dessert menu. The future is now.

Benjamin, our maitre d’, is one of those young Frenchmen gaining invaluable experience abroad-in his case at the Roosevelt,  a Hollywood landmark. He almost reflexively poured flutes of Billecart Salmon Rosé as he discussed the menu.

From the menu of 24 different oysters we started with a selection that included specials from Gillardeau, belons and fines de claires washed down with a 2010 Pouilly Fumé from Ladoucette. We stayed with that lovely wine for our main course which was a whole sea bass stuffed with fennel stalks and roasted to produce a crunchy skin and perfumed flesh.

We loved the meal so far but were totally unprepared for the sublime desserts: a “Darth Vader” tender chocolate cake served warm, « Dark Side » chocolate sorbet that was super-rich and an airy  grand marnier soufflé that was soft to the fork and redolent of the orange liqeur.

I had bragged about tasting a 1931 Réserve Armagnac at the Chèvre d’Or in Eze Benjamin felt compelled to be competitive and poured me 1964 Vieil Armagnac from Delord- I may have to come back for a second taste, can’t seem to decide?

And if you don’t wish to order à la carte there are several formulemenus including the HAUTE MER

LUNCH & DINNER 42 € 

APPETIZER, STARTER, MAIN DISH & DESSERT

• The big burgundy snails;in the shell, with mild garlic
• French Sea Bass and Scottish Salmon “Tartare” style smocked
• Fish soup, garlic croutons, rust sauce 
• The Cap-Ferret Platter9 oysters Grand Cru Pinasse de l’île aux Oiseaux, whelks, winkles, brown shrimps
• Red Label Scottish Salmonhome smoked, Tsarine cut
• Fish market’s Today Special*** Changes every day 

• Breton Thornback skate brown butter saycen lemon, capers
• The Céteaux, Little Soles from the Isle of Oléron  just seized, brown butter
• Cod Brandade little salad
• The Big Shrimp Bio of Madagascar  just seized on the plancha
• The Flank steak from Frank Samoyeau shallots
• Fish Market Today’s Special, changes every day

• The Bar à huîtres Dark Chocolate Mousse “langues de chat” 
• Sorbets strawberry-basil, yoghourt, lemon 
• The fresh pineapple, rhubarb compote 
• Crepes flambeed with Grand-Marnier before your eyes 
• Creme Brûlee with brown sugar, bourbon vanilla 

69, av de Wagram
75017 PARIS
+33 (0)1 43 80 63 54
Open midday till 2.30pm and 7.00pm till midnight
Valet parking
Métro: Ternes